What Kind Of Chainsaw Chain Do I Need

There seems to be an unlimited number of chain saw chain combinations that vary in size, type, and characteristics. When you need to change the chain, you need to fully understand your needs.

Your first stop should always be to check the manufacturer's manual, as it will specify the type of chain for your chainsaw. In addition, this is our quick checklist, which should help demystify the replacement of chainsaw chains.

Measure your chain

In theory, finding the right chain saw chain is a simple process – you need to understand three different measurement methods for bars:

Pitch

The pitch of a chainsaw is a measure that defines the tightness of the chain links on the chain saw. It is worth noting that this does not mean the total number of links or the total length of the chain, as they are completely different metrics.

Generally, there is a larger pitch on larger and heavier chains, which is why it is important to understand the measured value correctly, because it must be compatible with saw sprocket and guide-tooth sprocket. Usually, the measured value of the pitch is 0.325 inches and 3/8 inches, but before replacing the chain, make sure to check the exact size.

Guage

The chain saw gauge is a measurement used to define the thickness of the drive link, especially the thickness of the part of the drive link that fits the groove of the guide rod. The thicker the link, the heavier and stronger the chain may be. With a lighter machine, the speed will be faster, but it is not always that effective, so make sure you understand the different characteristics of the bracelet to complete the job at hand. If the chain gauge does not match, it cannot be inserted into the bar table correctly.

Number of chain links

This is important because it helps define the required size in the chain. This does not necessarily mean the total length of the chain, because choosing the correct chain must be a combination of all three measurements. If you don’t know, you must count the number of chain links-this is not always shown in the manual, so be sure to prepare this number when replacing the chain.

Chain arrangement

After determining the size of the chainsaw, you also need to consider how to arrange the chain:

Full complement chain

The full chain or standard chain has the largest number of cutting teeth. Among all the different chain arrangements, they are designed to be the smoothest and fastest. They are very popular on short chain or medium chain saw blades, so they are very suitable for many chain saw users who are bent over.

Full skip chains

The cutting teeth on these chains are the farthest away. These are ideal for long-term cutting because they are stronger at removing debris from wood. Since there are fewer cutting teeth overall, this means fewer teeth that need to be sharpened. The downside is that a complete jump chain is prone to vibration, and the risk of kickback is much higher.

Semi skip chains

This is a happy medium between a complete complement and a complete skip chain sequence, because half of the teeth are close together and the other half are far apart. Although this kind of chain looks more useful, it is not as popular as other chains.

Choosing the right chisel

In addition to understanding the different sizes and arrangements of the chain, you also need to determine the type of chisel you need. The chisel represents how the cutting teeth are cast on the saw chain itself, and then affects the way the saw cuts the wood.

Full chisel chain

Generally, if you are an experienced chain saw user or professional, you should only use a complete chisel chain, as the risk is greatest. They are used to cut the hardest hardwoods, such as oak. You can find a complete chisel chain because its square, angular cutting teeth are more suitable for passing through the muscles of the wood. This kind of chain has a much higher risk of rebound, which is why it can only be used by professionals or experienced chain saw users.

Half chisel chain

Although these chains are less effective in cutting wood, they have less risk of rebounding. The cutting teeth have rounded edges, the opposite of the square corners you see on a full chisel. As a result, you are more likely to see these chains on household chainsaws. Moreover, this design does not require sharpening as frequently as a complete chisel chain.

Low profile chain

These are ideal chains for beginner chainsaw users because they have the least chance of rebounding during use. It is for this reason that you see these chains on many chain saws sold in the retail sector.